Food, A Scarce Resource
In the wild, food is not always as plentiful as it may seem. This is especially true in winter, when many active animals—particularly birds and small mammals—must spend more energy searching for the limited seeds, fruits, and insects they need to survive. Thoughtfully maintained feeding stations can help wildlife through periods of scarcity while also bringing animals close enough for us to observe behaviors that would otherwise be difficult to see.
The options are nearly endless: black oil sunflower seed in tube feeders, millet scattered for ground-feeding birds, suet offered during cold weather, fruit for species that naturally eat it, and live or dried mealworms for insect-eating birds. Different foods and feeder designs attract different visitors. When feeders are kept clean, positioned safely, and used alongside native plants and natural shelter, they can become a valuable supplement to the food already available in a wildlife-friendly yard.
How and When to Feed Backyard Birds
Should you feed backyard birds all year? Is there a specific food that attracts chickadees? What can you do to help keep songbirds safe from outdoor cats? Are you offering your regular visitors the foods they actually need?
Bird feeders are one of the most effective ways to support backyard birds, especially during winter. At that time of year, many species that spend spring and summer eating insects switch to seeds, berries, or a broader diet because insects become scarce. In contrast, summer landscapes across North America usually provide abundant natural food, allowing birds to find most of what they need on their own.
The following are among the foods most widely accepted by North American birds, although many others can also be successful. The best choices are seeds and grains such as black oil sunflower, white proso millet, safflower, cracked corn, nyjer (thistle), oats, and wheat. Shelled peanuts are another favorite, especially for woodpeckers, nuthatches, titmice, and jays. Tree nuts—including acorns, pecans, walnuts, and hickory nuts—are eaten by larger species where naturally available. Fresh fruit such as apples, grapes, blueberries, serviceberries, elderberries, mulberries, and crabapples is especially attractive to robins, waxwings, thrushes, bluebirds, and orioles.
The shape of a bird’s bill provides valuable clues about the foods it is adapted to eat. Just as you would not expect a hawk to eat lettuce, each family of birds has evolved to specialize in certain foods. From left to right and top to bottom, the birds shown here illustrate several feeding strategies: the Ruby-crowned Kinglet (insectivore), Belted Kingfisher (fish-eater), American Goldfinch (seed-eater), American Kestrel (carnivore), Mallard (primarily omnivorous with a strong plant component), and Evening Grosbeak (seed- and fruit-eater).
The fine, pointed bill of chickadees is designed for picking insects from leaves, bark, and branches, but it is equally well suited to extracting sunflower seeds, peanuts, or suet from mesh feeders. That versatility explains why chickadees are among the most frequent visitors to backyard feeding stations throughout much of North America.
One of the greatest rewards of offering food to wild birds is that it brings them into clear view, allowing us to observe their behavior and enjoy their company at close range.
Fruit provides another simple way to expand a backyard feeding station. Orange halves, apple slices, and small portions of berries can be placed on a platform or secured to a fruit feeder, where they may attract orioles, mockingbirds, catbirds, robins, and waxwings. A step beyond fruit is live food—most commonly mealworms—which is especially appealing to bluebirds, wrens, chickadees, and other insect-eating birds. Small servings can be useful when adults are feeding young. Finally, there are prepared foods, whether purchased or made at home: suet cakes are true cold-weather magnets for woodpeckers, nuthatches, chickadees, and titmice. Traditional suet should be removed when warm temperatures cause it to soften or become rancid.
A different question is when to feed. Is supplemental food useful only in winter, or can feeders remain active during the nesting season? For most backyard birds, feeding throughout the year is acceptable as long as the food remains fresh and the feeding station is maintained responsibly. Keeping a seed feeder up does not prevent parent birds from gathering the insects and other natural foods their young require. During spring and summer, abundant natural food may reduce activity at some feeders; in winter, dependable sources of seed and fat often attract far larger numbers of visitors.
The Mountain Chickadee is a familiar visitor to sunflower-seed and suet feeders in the conifer forests of the western mountains. Small, restless, and acrobatic, it flits among twigs and pinecones and frequently gives the lively, scolding chick-a-dee call from which chickadees take their name.
Grains and seeds for backyard birds
Seeds are among the simplest foods to offer backyard birds. They are affordable, easy to store, and widely available from wild-bird stores, garden centers, farm-and-feed suppliers, and online retailers. You can purchase individual seed varieties or ready-made blends designed for North American feeder birds.
Black-oil sunflower seed is the best all-purpose choice for most yards. Its thin shell and energy-rich kernel appeal to chickadees, cardinals, finches, titmice, nuthatches, and many other species. White proso millet is especially popular with juncos, native sparrows, towhees, and Mourning Doves, while nyjer seed attracts American Goldfinches and Pine Siskins. Begin with small quantities to discover what your local birds prefer; once you know what they eat, purchasing seed in bulk from a feed store or agricultural cooperative can reduce the cost.
Dry bird food must be stored correctly. Keep it in a cool, dry place inside tightly sealed, waterproof containers. Metal cans with secure lids are particularly useful because mice and other rodents cannot easily chew through them. Dividing a large purchase among several smaller containers limits how much seed is exposed whenever one is opened. Discard seed that smells stale or appears wet, clumped, moldy, or heavily infested with insects. Never pour fresh seed over spoiled material; empty and clean the feeder first, then let it dry completely before refilling it.
Commercial blends make feeding convenient, but birds are selective and often throw aside ingredients they do not want. Inexpensive mixtures may contain large amounts of red milo, wheat, or other filler grains that many common feeder birds seldom eat. The discarded seed collects beneath the feeder, where it can spoil or attract rodents.
A simpler and often less wasteful approach is to offer one seed—or a small number of carefully selected seeds—in separate feeders. Black-oil sunflower can go in a tube or hopper feeder, nyjer in a finch feeder, and white proso millet on a low platform for ground-feeding birds. This arrangement makes it easier to learn which birds visit your yard and to purchase only the foods they actually consume.
The dried seedheads of native thistles, coneflowers, asters, and sunflowers are natural feeding stations for American Goldfinches and other seed-eating birds. Leave them standing through fall and winter instead of cutting them down. Goldfinches also use the soft fibers of native thistles and milkweeds when building their nests.
Annual grasses provide many of the small seeds eaten by ground-feeding birds. White proso millet (Panicum miliaceum) is especially attractive to Dark-eyed Juncos, native sparrows, towhees, quail, Northern Cardinals, and Mourning Doves. Offer only a small amount in a well-drained platform feeder or low tray so that it is eaten before it becomes wet or moldy. Cracked corn may also attract doves, quail, jays, and other larger birds, but it should be kept dry and used sparingly.
Black-oil sunflower seed (Helianthus annuus) is the most useful all-purpose choice for an American backyard. Its thin shell is easy for most seed-eating birds to open, while the oil-rich kernel provides concentrated energy. Chickadees, titmice, nuthatches, cardinals, finches, grosbeaks, and many woodpeckers readily visit feeders stocked with it. Shelled sunflower hearts produce less waste beneath a feeder, although they spoil more quickly once their protective hull has been removed.
Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) has a thick, pale shell and is particularly popular with Northern Cardinals. Grosbeaks, chickadees, native sparrows, finches, and doves may also eat it. Some people use safflower when House Sparrows, European Starlings, or squirrels dominate a feeder, although results vary from one yard to another. It works best in hopper and platform feeders that give larger songbirds enough room to perch.
Nyjer (Guizotia abyssinica) is a tiny, dark, oil-rich seed that is highly attractive to American Goldfinches, Lesser Goldfinches, Pine Siskins, and Common Redpolls. Although it is often marketed as “thistle seed,” it comes from an African member of the sunflower family rather than from a true thistle. Because the seeds are so small, they should be offered in a finch tube or fine-mesh feeder that prevents them from spilling.
Peanut pieces and hulled sunflower kernels are valuable additions to premium mixes. Their high energy content attracts chickadees, titmice, nuthatches, woodpeckers, and jays. Unsalted pumpkin kernels may also be accepted when chopped into manageable pieces. Keep all shelled nuts and kernels dry, since foods without protective hulls deteriorate faster in damp or humid conditions.
Common Feeder Seeds
- White proso millet — Panicum miliaceum
- Black-oil sunflower — Helianthus annuus
- Nyjer — Guizotia abyssinica
- Safflower — Carthamus tinctorius
- Peanut pieces — Arachis hypogaea
- Pumpkin kernels — Cucurbita pepo
- Cracked corn — Zea mays
Whatever food you provide, remove wet or moldy material, sweep up discarded seed, and clean seed feeders about every two weeks to reduce the spread of disease.
Sunflower Seeds and Nuts
Like other seeds and grains, legumes and tree nuts store concentrated energy for a developing plant. Their high fat and protein content also makes them valuable food for backyard birds, especially during cold weather. Because these foods can quickly deteriorate when damp, store them in a cool, dry place inside tightly sealed, pest-resistant containers.
An adult male Northern Cardinal cracking a sunflower seed at a backyard feeder. Where cardinals occur, a dependable supply of fresh black-oil sunflower seed may bring the same individuals back throughout the winter.
Choose peanuts carefully
Purchase fresh, plain peanuts from a reliable supplier. They should never be salted, seasoned, candy-coated, or mixed with chocolate. Before filling a feeder, check for moisture, visible mold, discoloration, insects, or a stale, rancid smell. Discard questionable food rather than mixing it with a new batch.
Wet seed and accumulated debris create unhealthy feeding conditions, so keep both the stored food and the feeder itself dry. Wash feeders regularly, rinse them thoroughly, and let them dry completely before refilling. Old seed beneath the feeding station should also be removed.
The peanut (Arachis hypogaea) is not a true nut but a member of the legume family. Rich in fat and protein, it provides a concentrated source of energy for birds. Plain, unsalted peanuts attract Blue Jays, woodpeckers, Black-capped and Carolina Chickadees, Tufted Titmice, nuthatches, and several other feeder visitors.
Whole peanuts can be placed in a sturdy wire-mesh feeder that allows birds to pull out one piece at a time. Shelled peanuts or peanut pieces may be served in a hopper or platform feeder, although small fragments spoil more rapidly and should be offered only in amounts the birds will finish promptly. Peanuts are particularly useful in winter, when birds need energy-rich foods to maintain body temperature.
A chickadee at a mesh peanut feeder. This arrangement lets birds remove individual nuts while reducing the amount scattered onto the ground.
Black-oil sunflower seed is the most useful all-purpose food for North American feeding stations. Its relatively thin shell is easier for many birds to open than the thick shell of striped sunflower seed, and its oil-rich kernel supplies abundant energy. It is eaten by Northern Cardinals, chickadees, titmice, nuthatches, House and Purple Finches, grosbeaks, and several species of woodpeckers.
For anyone setting up a first feeder, black-oil sunflower seed is usually the best place to begin because it attracts one of the broadest ranges of species. It works well in tube, hopper, and platform feeders.
Striped sunflower seed is larger and has a tougher shell. It is often selected by strong-billed birds such as cardinals, grosbeaks, and jays, but smaller species may have difficulty opening it. Hulled sunflower kernels, also sold as sunflower hearts or chips, eliminate this problem and create far less shell litter. They are excellent for small finches, chickadees, and nuthatches, but they cost more and deteriorate faster once exposed to rain or humidity. Crushed kernels may also clump inside narrow feeder ports during damp weather.
A feeder is only a supplement
A bird may visit repeatedly for sunflower seed or peanuts, but no single feeder food represents its complete natural diet. Even familiar seed-eating species consume insects, fruits, buds, and many kinds of wild seeds during the year. Young songbirds in particular depend heavily on insects.
For that reason, the most effective bird-feeding station begins with habitat. Native trees, shrubs, grasses, and wildflowers provide natural seeds, berries, nuts, shelter, and the insects birds need. Feeders add an easily observed source of food, but they should complement—not replace—a diverse native landscape.
Commercial nut-and-seed blends can also be attractive to birds. Better mixtures may contain black-oil sunflower seed, sunflower hearts, peanut pieces, white proso millet, and other useful ingredients. However, inexpensive blends are sometimes dominated by grains that many backyard birds ignore, leaving a layer of discarded food beneath the feeder.
Rather than placing an elaborate mixture in a single tray, consider offering foods separately: sunflower seed in a tube or hopper feeder, peanuts in a mesh feeder, and millet on a low platform for ground-feeding birds. This allows each species to use the food and feeder best suited to it, while making it easier to see which ingredients are actually being eaten.
| Food | Energy value | Frequent visitors | Practical note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Black-oil sunflower | Very high | Cardinals, chickadees, finches, titmice, nuthatches, grosbeaks | Best general-purpose seed |
| Sunflower hearts or chips | Very high | Small finches, chickadees, nuthatches | Little waste, but spoils quickly when wet |
| Plain peanuts | Very high | Jays, woodpeckers, chickadees, titmice, nuthatches | Offer unsalted in a sturdy feeder |
| Striped sunflower | High | Cardinals, grosbeaks, jays | Thick shell favors larger, stronger bills |
| White proso millet | Moderate | Juncos, native sparrows, doves | Best offered close to the ground |
Suet Cakes
Suet cakes are among the most effective foods for attracting insect-eating birds to a yard. Woodpeckers, chickadees, nuthatches, titmice, wrens, and other species may discover a newly installed cake surprisingly quickly. Commercial varieties are convenient and come in many blends, but a simple homemade version can work just as well. Suet is especially valuable during cold weather, when birds must consume large amounts of energy to maintain their body temperature.
Suet cakes are an excellent attraction, and many reusable feeder designs are available. Below, a black-capped chickadee and a white-breasted nuthatch sampling a freshly placed cake.
Traditional suet is rendered beef fat, although palm-oil-free vegetable shortening combined with unsalted nut butter can also form the base of a homemade cake. Seeds, chopped unsalted peanuts, rolled oats, cornmeal, or small amounts of dried fruit can then be mixed in. Avoid bread, cookies, cheese, salted nuts, sweetened fruit, or other table scraps. Such foods are less nutritious and may encourage the growth of harmful bacteria or mold.
Once the mixture has hardened, place it in a rigid, washable wire suet cage with a securely fastened lid. Hang the feeder from a sturdy pole or branch where birds can approach easily but predators cannot hide nearby. A bottom-access cage can favor agile native birds such as woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches while making it harder for European Starlings to dominate the food.
Homemade suet should be offered only during cool or cold weather. Warm fat can melt, become rancid, or coat a bird’s feathers. Even commercial “no-melt” cakes should be kept in shade and checked frequently during hot or humid conditions. Remove any cake that smells unpleasant, becomes unusually soft, or shows signs of mold.
An Easy Winter Recipe
This simple mixture combines energy-rich fat with seeds, grains, and nuts commonly eaten by North American feeder birds.
- Melt 1 cup rendered beef suet or palm-oil-free vegetable shortening over low heat.
- Stir in ½ cup unsalted, unsweetened peanut butter.
- Add 2 cups black-oil sunflower chips or a quality wild-bird seed blend, 1 cup rolled oats, and ½ cup cornmeal.
- Mix thoroughly and press the mixture into a small reusable container or standard suet-cake mold.
- Refrigerate or freeze until firm, then remove the cake and place it inside a washable suet cage.
- Offer it when outdoor temperatures remain below about 50°F (10°C).
- Make only as much as the birds will consume promptly. Clean suet cages with warm water and dish soap every week or two—and more frequently during wet weather or heavy use. Rinse them well and allow them to dry completely before adding fresh food.
Live Food
Finding live food for insect-eating birds isn’t always easy. Anyone who has tried to care for a nestling—or help a rescued insectivorous bird recover—knows how quickly a supply of flies, spiders, caterpillars, or other small invertebrates disappears. Fortunately, with a little planning, you can maintain a dependable source of live prey at home, providing the high-quality protein that many North American birds depend on.
Earthworms
Earthworms (Lumbricus spp. and other common composting species) are soft-bodied, legless invertebrates that require little more than moist organic matter to thrive. A backyard compost bin or worm bin can produce a steady supply with minimal effort.
After a soaking rain, American Robins, thrushes, towhees, and many other ground-feeding birds actively search lawns and gardens for earthworms. Offering a few freshly collected worms can be especially helpful for rehabilitating birds or supplementing feeding stations designed for insectivorous species.
Mealworms
Mealworms—the larval stage of the darkling beetle (Tenebrio molitor)—are among the most useful live foods for backyard bird enthusiasts. Their moderate size, soft body, and high nutritional value make them attractive to a wide variety of birds, including Eastern Bluebirds, Carolina Wrens, chickadees, nuthatches, Northern Mockingbirds, and many migratory warblers during stopovers.
Raising mealworms at home is straightforward. A plastic storage container with smooth sides works well. Add a bedding of rolled oats or wheat bran, along with pieces of carrot or potato for moisture, and introduce a starter colony purchased from a pet store or online supplier. Within a few life cycles, the colony can produce a continuous supply of larvae.
To keep production steady, periodically separate the largest larvae before they pupate into beetles, while allowing enough adults to reproduce and maintain the colony.
Maintaining a small mealworm colony is surprisingly simple. Keep the container in a dry location at moderate room temperature, away from direct sunlight. Cooler temperatures slow development, while excessive heat speeds up the life cycle.
Land Snails
Native land snails can be an important natural food source for several North American thrushes, particularly species such as the Wood Thrush, Hermit Thrush, and Varied Thrush, as well as other birds that forage on the forest floor. These birds break the shell to reach the soft body inside, gaining valuable calcium as well as protein.
Rather than collecting snails from the wild, the best approach is to create a garden that naturally supports healthy populations. A layer of leaf litter, decaying logs, shaded planting beds, and consistently moist soil provides ideal habitat for native snails and other beneficial invertebrates.
Quick Guide to Feeding Backyard Birds
Following a few simple guidelines can make it much easier to attract birds to your yard. Success depends on more than just offering food—where you place feeders, what you offer, the season, and regular maintenance all play an important role in keeping birds healthy and coming back.
What should you do?
- Place feeders in a safe location. Keep them well away from busy roads and large windows where birds could collide. Position them close enough to shrubs or small trees to provide quick escape cover, but far enough away that outdoor cats cannot hide nearby and ambush visiting birds.
- Avoid salty or processed foods. Never offer salted peanuts, popcorn, chips, or other human snack foods. Birds need natural, unsalted foods formulated for wildlife.
- Match the food to the feeder and the birds. Mixed seed works well in hopper or tray feeders, while species such as chickadees, nuthatches, finches, cardinals, woodpeckers, and jays often have different preferences. Black oil sunflower seed is an excellent all-purpose choice, while nyjer seed, safflower, peanuts, or suet may attract particular species.
- Buy quality bird food. Seed sold specifically for wild birds is generally cleaner, fresher, and less likely to contain excessive filler ingredients. High-quality seed also stays usable longer when stored properly.
- Keep feeders clean. Wash feeders regularly—ideally every time you refill them after two or three uses, or more often during warm, wet weather. Hot water and a dilute bleach solution (followed by thorough rinsing and drying) help prevent the spread of diseases. Never allow old seeds to accumulate in the feeder.
- Watch for spoiled food. A few insects in stored seed are usually less of a concern than dampness and mold. Discard any seed that smells musty, has visible mold, or has remained wet for an extended period.
What should you avoid?
- Never offer food that can become moldy. Mold may seem harmless to people but can be deadly to small birds. Replace wet seeds promptly after rain or snow.
- Choose food sizes carefully. Birds swallow food whole rather than chewing it, so avoid pieces that are too large or difficult for the species you hope to attract. Offer foods appropriate for the size and feeding habits of your local birds.
Make a Peanut Garland
One of the easiest and most effective DIY bird feeders is a peanut garland.
You'll need:
- Unsalted peanuts in the shell
- A large needle
- Natural cotton twine or untreated jute string
Tie a knot in one end of the string, thread the peanuts one by one, and hang the finished garland from a sturdy tree branch or feeding station. This simple project is especially attractive to woodpeckers, chickadees, nuthatches, titmice, Blue Jays, and squirrels, making it an enjoyable way to watch backyard wildlife.
Natural Food Sources
Some of the best bird feeders are living plants: fruiting trees, berry-producing shrubs, and native grasses deliberately included in the landscape. Perhaps you prefer a garden without many artificial structures but still want it to welcome a lively variety of birds.
Native grapes
A well-established native grapevine can produce generous clusters of fruit in a single season. The energy-rich grapes feed many birds, while the vine’s tangled growth can also provide shelter and nesting cover. Choose a grape species native to your part of the country and give it a sturdy arbor, fence, or trellis to climb.
Native hollies
Native hollies are handsome landscape plants whose berries become especially valuable in fall and winter. American holly is a good evergreen choice across much of the eastern United States, while deciduous winterberry works well in moist soils within its native range. American Robins, Eastern Bluebirds, Northern Mockingbirds, and Cedar Waxwings may all visit the fruiting branches.
Offering apples
Fresh apple pieces secured to a branch or placed on a clean platform feeder provide an easy way to observe fruit-eating birds. American Robins often feed closer to the ground, while bluebirds, mockingbirds, orioles, and cardinals may be more comfortable taking fruit from an elevated spot. Offer only a small amount at a time and remove leftovers promptly, since cut fruit spoils quickly and can attract insects or rodents.
Regionally native shrubs that ripen from late summer through winter are among the most dependable natural food sources for backyard birds. Native blackberries and raspberries produce familiar fruits relished by Gray Catbirds, American Robins, thrushes, and many other species. Elderberries and serviceberries are equally useful, providing both fruit and the insects that gather around their flowers and foliage. In the West, native salmonberries can fill a similar role where climate and soil conditions are suitable.
Native grapes, Virginia creeper, dogwoods, and fruiting sumacs extend the season into fall, when migrating birds need abundant food. The fruit may seem well hidden among the leaves, but once a flock of Cedar Waxwings—or resident robins, catbirds, or mockingbirds—discovers it, the crop can disappear remarkably quickly. Rather than relying on a single shrub, combine several species whose fruits mature at different times. This creates a succession of food from early summer into the coldest months.
Small native trees can be just as productive. Serviceberries offer spring flowers followed by early-summer fruit; flowering dogwoods supply fall drupes used by dozens of bird species; and hackberries can hold small fruits well into winter. Native elderberries, hollies, viburnums, and crabapples are valuable additions where they occur naturally. Because the United States contains many distinct ecological regions, select species native to your county or surrounding ecoregion rather than assuming that one plant is appropriate nationwide.
Finally, fruit trees are excellent natural feeding stations for medium and large yards. A regionally native crabapple is often one of the best choices: its blossoms support insects in spring, and its small fruits may remain available to birds during fall and winter. An existing apple tree can also help. Leave some sound fruit on the branches or offer fresh pieces directly, but remove anything moldy or heavily fermented. Robins, waxwings, bluebirds, mockingbirds, and orioles may all take advantage of the harvest.
Native grasses and flowering perennials complete the arrangement. Leave their seed heads standing through winter instead of cutting everything down in fall. Sparrows, juncos, goldfinches, chickadees, and titmice will forage among the stems, allowing the garden itself to serve as a spacious, constantly changing feeder.
Bird Feeders: Build Your Own or Buy One?
When we need a container that stores food and offers it to birds without looking out of place in the yard, we have two basic choices: make one ourselves or purchase a ready-made feeder.
Both options have advantages and disadvantages. Building a feeder is a good way to understand—or improve—the design of these devices and to observe the needs of the birds that visit us. With a small workspace, making a simple feeder can also be an enjoyable project to share with children. A cylinder of sturdy, small-gauge wire mesh, for example, can become a feeder for shelled peanuts, provided that all cut edges are folded inward or covered so they cannot injure birds.
In fact, a feeder can be as simple as a shallow tray or slightly raised platform. It should allow rainwater to drain away, keep the food as dry as possible, and have a smooth surface that can be scrubbed easily. A removable tray or screen bottom makes routine maintenance much simpler. Wet seed spoils quickly and may contribute to disease transmission, so discard any food that is damp, moldy, clumped, or contaminated with droppings. Cornell’s Project FeederWatch recommends cleaning feeders regularly—even when no sick birds have been observed.
Especially on a city patio, apartment balcony, or small suburban lot, an elaborate structure may be unnecessary. A compact platform supplied with a modest amount of black-oil sunflower seed can work perfectly well, particularly during cold weather. Do not add more food than the birds can consume before it becomes stale, and sweep away accumulated hulls and droppings beneath the feeder.
Buying feeders is another practical choice, especially when we want a polished appearance or plan to install several feeding stations. Stores offer models for nearly every kind of food and bird. Look for feeders made from durable materials, with adequate drainage and parts that can be taken apart for cleaning. Metal feeding ports and guards are generally more resistant to squirrel damage than thin plastic components.
Suet cages and peanut feeders
Metal cages are widely available in sizes designed to hold standard suet cakes. Suet is especially attractive to woodpeckers, nuthatches, chickadees, titmice, and other birds that benefit from energy-rich foods during cool weather. Some cages hold two or more cakes side by side, allowing birds to feed from several surfaces.
Similar wire or perforated-metal feeders can be filled with shelled peanuts. Offer only plain, unsalted peanuts intended for consumption, and replace them promptly during wet or humid weather. Blue Jays, woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches are among the many North American birds that may use them.
| Food | Feeder length or height | Approximate capacity |
|---|---|---|
| Sunflower seed or quality seed blend | 7 in. | 2 cups |
| Sunflower seed or quality seed blend | 14 in. | 1 quart |
| Sunflower seed or quality seed blend | 21 in. | 1½ quarts |
| Shelled peanuts | 8 in. | 2 cups |
| Shelled peanuts | 12 in. | 3 cups |
| Nyjer seed | 7 in. | 2 cups |
| Nyjer seed | 14 in. | 1 quart |
| Nyjer seed | 21 in. | 1½ quarts |
Platform feeders provide close views of birds that may otherwise be difficult to observe. Above, a flock of Pine Siskins and goldfinches gather around a mixture of sunflower chips and other small seeds on a hanging platform feeder. Watching such activity from indoors can be a wonderful reward for the cost of the food—but protect the birds as well as the view. Feeders near windows should be placed within 3 feet of the glass or more than 30 feet away to reduce the danger of high-speed collisions. Treating the outside of reflective windows with closely spaced markers or screening provides additional protection.
A commercial suet cage can hold either packaged cakes or suitable homemade mixtures.
Sometimes simplicity is an advantage. A shallow dish filled with seed is easy for birds to recognize and can quickly attract visitors. Here, a House Sparrow feeds from a small tray in an urban setting. Even the simplest feeder, however, should drain well and be cleaned regularly.
Tube feeders
Among the most familiar backyard feeders are clear tube feeders made from durable plastic or metal. They are ideal for black-oil sunflower seed, sunflower chips, or nyjer seed, depending on the size of the feeding ports. Most models have several openings and perches, allowing chickadees, finches, titmice, and nuthatches to feed at the same time.
Choose a feeder that can be taken apart easily for cleaning and that has drainage holes near the base. Large-capacity feeders may seem convenient, but seed should not remain inside long enough to become damp, moldy, or spoiled.
Mesh feeders
Cylindrical or rectangular wire-mesh feeders work especially well for shelled peanuts, sunflower chips, and suet nuggets. The openings must be small enough to hold the food securely while still allowing birds to remove manageable pieces.
Use only fresh, unsalted peanuts intended for wildlife feeding, and discard any that smell rancid or show signs of mold. Avoid plastic mesh produce bags, which can entangle birds’ feet, tongues, or beaks. A sturdy metal feeder with smooth, finished edges is much safer.
Platforms and trays
Platform feeders are modern versions of the traditional porch or windowsill feeding tray. They are easy for birds to discover and accommodate species that may hesitate to use narrow perches, including Northern Cardinals, Dark-eyed Juncos, towhees, Mourning Doves, and many native sparrows.
Because birds stand directly on the feeding surface, platform feeders require frequent cleaning. A screened bottom or several drainage holes will keep rain and melting snow from collecting around the seed. Offer only as much food as birds will eat within a day or two, and remove anything wet or contaminated.
Platforms come in many shapes and sizes. For an average yard, a tray measuring approximately 12 by 16 inches is usually large enough without encouraging excessive crowding.
A simple mesh feeder can be built with two weather-resistant plant pot saucers and a cylinder of rigid, corrosion-resistant hardware cloth. Select a mesh size appropriate for shelled peanuts or sunflower pieces. Fold or cover every cut wire edge so that no sharp points remain. Hang the feeder securely from a pole or branch, and use a baffle when squirrels or raccoons are a problem. Keep the feeding area away from places where outdoor cats could hide and ambush birds.
Hanging brackets and pole-mounted supports can place a platform feeder beyond the reach of many mammals. A properly fitted baffle is generally more effective than simply hanging the feeder higher. Some commercial designs also use protective cages or weight-sensitive mechanisms to reduce visits from squirrels, European Starlings, or large flocks of Common Grackles.
Clean the platform with hot, soapy water, rinse it thoroughly, and allow it to dry completely before adding fresh food. More intensive disinfection may be necessary if sick birds have been seen nearby.
A roofed feeder is still a platform feeder; the roof simply protects the food from rain and snow. It should not be confused with a nest box attached to a feeding tray. Combining nesting and feeding areas is usually impractical because spilled food, droppings, predators, and constant bird traffic can disturb nesting adults and young.
Buy one (Pros)
- Many sizes and designs are available
- Commercial models have usually been tested
- Durable materials can last for years
- Replacement parts may be available
- Specialty designs can control access to food
Buy one (Cons)
- Good-quality feeders may be expensive
- Some models are difficult to clean
- The design must suit the food and bird species
Build one (Pros)
- Homemade feeders can cost less
- Building one can be an enjoyable project
- Simple, effective designs are possible
- The size can be customized for the yard
Build one (Cons)
- Safety depends on careful construction
- Rough edges and unsuitable materials can injure birds
- Homemade models may drain or exclude squirrels less effectively
Risks and Solutions
Wildlife visiting our yards and patios faces many hazards. Our goal should always be to ensure that the changes we make do more good than harm and, as discussed earlier, to reduce the risks created by feeding stations, nest boxes, water features, and other garden improvements.
Free-roaming cats are among the most serious threats to backyard birds, small mammals, reptiles, and amphibians. Bells and brightly colored collar covers may reduce hunting success in some situations, but they cannot make an outdoor cat harmless. The most effective solution is to keep pet cats indoors or provide them with a secure outdoor enclosure, often called a catio. Leash walks and supervised time outside are safer alternatives as well.
Bird feeders should be positioned so that cats cannot approach unnoticed. Mount them several feet above the ground and away from low walls, fences, tree limbs, patio furniture, and dense vegetation that could be used as a hiding place or launching point. Birds also benefit from an open view around the feeding area, which gives them more time to detect an approaching predator. Nearby native shrubs can still provide escape cover, but they should not be so close or dense that a cat can wait beneath the feeder.
Commercial ultrasonic devices are often promoted as a way to repel cats, raccoons, squirrels, and other animals, but their effectiveness is inconsistent. Some animals quickly become accustomed to them, and the sounds may disturb pets or wildlife that we did not intend to exclude. Physical barriers and responsible pet management are generally more dependable.
Predators from neighboring properties
Even a household without pets may receive visits from a neighbor’s cat or dog. Calmly discussing the problem with the owner is often the best first step. Local leash laws or animal-control regulations may also apply when a pet repeatedly enters other properties.
Motion-activated sprinklers can discourage persistent visitors without injuring them. Secure fencing may help in some yards, especially when openings at ground level are closed. Avoid poisons, glue traps, sharp devices, and chemical repellents that could harm wildlife, pets, or children. Strong-smelling products also tend to wash away and rarely provide a lasting solution.
Protecting feeders and nest boxes
Well-designed mechanical guards can prevent many climbing predators from reaching food or nests. A smooth metal stovepipe baffle placed below a pole-mounted feeder is especially effective against raccoons and squirrels when the pole is far enough from trees, roofs, and fences. Predator guards around nest-box entrances can also reduce access by raccoons, snakes, squirrels, and other nest raiders.
These devices may not always blend naturally into the garden, but a properly installed guard is far preferable to an unprotected nest box that becomes an easy target. Check all barriers regularly to ensure that they have not loosened, developed sharp edges, or created places where an animal could become trapped.
Wire cages can be placed around some tube feeders to limit access by larger birds and mammals while allowing smaller songbirds to enter. However, the openings must be large enough for birds to pass through safely and small enough to prevent predators from reaching inside. Remove any structure that causes birds to catch their feet, wings, or feathers.
No backyard can be made completely free of predators—and native predators are themselves important members of the ecosystem. The objective is not to eliminate natural hunting, but to avoid creating unnaturally concentrated feeding areas where wildlife becomes especially vulnerable. Thoughtful placement, secure equipment, regular maintenance, and keeping cats safely contained can greatly reduce the danger.